2014 jeep cherokee transmission fluid change
Loud clunk, Tow truck, No start, maybe Fuel Pump?
2023.06.10 03:43 -White_Lightning- Loud clunk, Tow truck, No start, maybe Fuel Pump?
1997 cherokee XJ 4.0L.
So a few weeks ago on my drive into work, I was speeding up to get onto the highway when there was a loud clunk from the rear of my xj. I lost all power to accelerate and i pulled over and shut it off. While waiting for the tow truck I looked around and there was no obvious damage. No leaks, no broken pieces, no smoke. Nothing.
Once home I checked all of the fluids and they were full and clean. I looked under the jeep and didn't find anything broken, as well as nothing broken under the hood (that I can tell). I checked all of the spark plugs and they are worn, but not damaged or by a piston head or anything.
Right now I simply can't get it to start back up. It'll crank and sputter but I get nothing. I'll give it some gas and it seems to sputter a little more, like it's right on the cusp of turning over, but still nothing.
I bought a fuel injection pressure tester and found out that when I turn the jeep on it'll pressurize up to 45psi, but begin dropping very quickly (down to 20psi in 10 seconds or less). So I'm thinking fuel pump perhaps? Maybe fuel filter is also a factor?
One other thing, I was draining some fuel from the fuel rail using the same tester, and I bypassed the fuel pump to do so. With it bypassed the pressure would be steady at 45psi, and steady at 20psi when draining. Not sure if this helps.
Any ideas would be great.
Edit: there are no codes being thrown currently.
submitted by -White_Lightning-
to CherokeeXJ [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 02:42 Novemberx123 Could I have damaged my car by not following maintenance?
I got this 2016 Honda fit at 110k. It is at 170k now. I’ve only ever done oil changes, tire changes, and replace breaks. I just recently replaced the serpatine belt, transmission fluid change, coolant flush, break flush and cabin filter and engine filter. Those filters were the dirtiest things I’ve ever seen. Before I did this, the car would drive rough like when it switched gears, I would feel it “pull” a little bit and I just thought it was because the amount of miles on it. Now that I’ve done these things and got new filters, it drives like I’ve never felt before. I don’t even feel it switching gears anymore. I’m just worried that driving it for 60k miles without much maintenance except oil changes might have damaged it a little. Is that possible? I’m definitely going to follow the maintenance from now on. For once in my life I finally have a list of all the maintenance I need to do thanks to a mechanic on here I just hope I didn’t do any damage..
submitted by Novemberx123
to hondafit [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 01:11 Krasynes AFR Code
2023.06.10 00:36 Ill_Effective_7425 2012 Camry Hybrid 115,000 miles transmission fluid exchange service - is it necessary?
Took car to toyota dealer for oil change and they said I need transmission fluid exchange service done on my 2012 Toyota camry hybrid xle. It's never had it done before as far as I know. I've read mixed info online regarding this. The maintenance log that came with the car makes no mention of transmission fluid. Dealer would charge about $280.
They also said I needed a bunch of other things done like coolant and inverter coolant flushes and new spark plugs that I've actually had done at another local toyota dealership within last 10-20,000 miles. They said I need a new cabin air filter even though I literally just changed it myself. So I'm pretty skeptical and unsure what actually needs to be done. The other service they said is critical is PCV valve and they'll charge about $630.
The total for everything they wanted me to do was over $3,000.
Going on a road trip soon and want to make sure car is reliable but also recently lost job and trying to save money. Any advice on the transmission fluid and PCV valve is appreciated!
submitted by Ill_Effective_7425
to Toyota [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 00:29 MacGyver0321 My daily driver
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Been chipping away at the to-do list. Recently changed the engine and differential oil, plus the transmission fluid. Also rebuilt the shifter, replaced clutch master and slave, and installed a new head unit and door speakers. Still diagnosing the cause of the inoperable cruise control submitted by MacGyver0321 to Miata [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 00:28 InnerApartment6730 2014 Nissan maxima jerking while driven
I drive a 2014 Nissan maxima and while driving it down the highway I was unable to get it passed 2.5k rpm without it roughly jittering or jerking. If it went past 3k it wouldn’t provide any acceleration. I eventually pulled over to check everything. The transmission fluid isn’t low but it is burnt ( I know I’m an idiot I am lousy with cars) after about 20 minutes I hopped back in to get it somewhere safer and noticed it no longer was jittering (although the smell of burnt transmission fluid was now a bit evident. It’s a cvt transmission. My question is should I try to change the fluid, do a partial change or replace the transmission all together. Since it stopped (what I’m assuming was slipping) is the only reason I think that fluid change might at least put a temporary fix on it.
submitted by InnerApartment6730
to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 00:16 S_Baime Overdrive problem solved
My partner has a 2014 (I believe) Yaris with an automatic transmission.
When I drove her car, I was convinced it wouldn't shift into 4th geaoverdrive. At 60mph on the freeway, the engine rpm was extremely high. My guess is 3800rpm . The car doesn't have a tach. It was so bad, I didn't want to drive it on the freeway.
I asked a local garage, that I've had some good luck with, to take a look at it, and they said it was working properly.
My partner brought it to her long time mechanic for an oil change today, and I asked her to have them check it out. (She kept thinking I was imagining this problem.)
The mechanic said he knew what was happening. The transmission shift lever has a 3-D position. It is actually two positions. The left side limits the top gear to third, and the right side enables overdrive/4th gear. WTH. What a goofy design.
It is now working great, and running at reasonable engine rpms on the freeway. It is like a completely different car.
I'm writing this, because I'm very happy about resolving this problem, and I'm hoping this information helps another Yaris owner out there.
Take care, JP
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to yaris [link] [comments]
2023.06.09 23:27 whitestone0 Shop refuses to change dif fluid.
Is this as weird as it seems?
A "complete automotive care" shop wouldn't change my dif fluid in my 2014 rav 4 (scheduled every 30k miles). They said that since I bought it used and "didn't know if the scheduled maintenance had been performed" that it could be worse to start now at 120k miles and suggested just not doing it at all "to be safe".
I told them I had the CarFax that said all the maintenance had been done per the schedule at the dealer and they told me they wouldn't do it, and to take it to the dealer... Am I crazy or is this normal?
submitted by whitestone0
to Justrolledintotheshop [link] [comments]
2023.06.09 23:06 PrudentSalad5039 2012 Jeep Patriot is making weird sounds. PLEASE HELP!!
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So I got this car slightly over 3 years ago (3 years, 1 month). And as of recently this noise that I can only best describe as whooshing or airy sound is coming from my car. I first noticed it when I was climbing a steep hill on the highway about 2 months ago. It only was first occurring when going up where my car was required to go up a hill and use more acceleration. And as of today now it’s doing it for everything, anytime I accelerate and go over 0.5 RPM it starts making that horrible noise. I had taken it to a mechanic and they said it would be my transmission but my dad said screw that and took it to a guy who dedicates himself to transmissions so of course I obliged cause I don’t wanna drop 3k on a transmission. The guy my dad recommend said it was just transmission fluid that it was lacking but that didn’t solve the noise. He said that the car was changing gears perfectly fine when he drove it. Now I’m worried it really might be the transmission. Anyone here know what it could possibly be or have dealt with anything similar? submitted by PrudentSalad5039 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
2023.06.09 22:47 GENsesh3 Need opinions sorry for the long post
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Hey, so I'm new to the group. Me and my wife are transitioning to van life for sale of avoiding homelessness. So it's more of a survival things, that will be upgraded to be better at some point in time. We don't have many options, we're having to drive it to Maine, where we will park it on some family land, add things to it, live in it, etc. They have a shit ton of land and we're like parking and living in either a van or a tent if we can't live in the van until the van is ready. Until the van is fully ready to be traveling ready for her and I and our dog. submitted by GENsesh3 to VanLife [link] [comments]
Now that that's out of the way, let me ask for the opinions on this van we found. We found a 1990 Chevy G20 with 180,000 miles, that already is converted quite a bit. It was converted by a company in California to be a home traveling office. It has a built in generator, storage, etc. The generator does need a fuel pump replaced, but I looked the part up and it's not bad at all (it's a generac generator). They said it does have a oil leak, they aren't sure what it's from as they didnt have the money to have it checked out. We went and saw it and it was pretty cool! It really is converted, the AC is connected to the generator and once that's fixed the rooftop AC will work. It isn't the best. We test drove it and it drove pretty good, it was stable, it felt smooth, it started up just fine, we checked the exhaust to see if liquid was coming out and there was none. It also has a new battery. We also checked the transmission fluid to see if it smelled like rotten eggs, and it didn't, it smelled like oil and didn't look like awful oil, not black but not red either, more of an auburn. The engine bay looked nice and clean. The vans AC could use a charge, or it might be the radiator. The radiator did look like it could be replaced for sure. We tried to check the leak but we couldn't find any. The person said that they didn't even know if it was a oil leak, it could have just been a loose cap, they never got it checked out from financial stress. We think it could be the radiator as it wasn't spitting cold air, but we're not too sure yet. We didn't bring our AC charger so we're checking that before we buy it fs. Radiator is definitely getting replaced. But we just want opinions, it was going for 5000, but they said they dropped it down to 4 because of the oil leak. We're thinking we might offer a little lower, just because some things do need touched up on. But it was a solid van, it was REALLY nice. The only options around us are rusted looking beaten to hell vans that we'd have to convert ourself. And it's great because we can semi live in it right off the bat while not being so much more expensive than the worse options. Which all are also over 200,000 miles. like an Astro, a express. Like 2-3 options in our area. So do y'all think it's worth it if you read this far? Pictures will be included. We don't want something to be a money pit ofc. Our main focus is preventative stuff like engine, transmission, radiator etc. Want to also mention that we have to drive the van to Maine, from Kentucky, so we do plan on getting oils changed, topping off all fluids, filling up tires, and getting it checked out to see about the oil leak and if a seal is broke or something. We won't have a home and apart of it is safety as we're both trans women and experience EXTREME discrimination. So to make money we have to move to Maine. Sorry for this long post, under a lot of stress and am getting some anxiety😅
PS: want to also add they were really nice people, we talked a lot about the van and what they knew was done with it, as they only had it a year due to not being able to actually pursue van life.
2023.06.09 22:25 Charliec3ntral What to replace my Jeep with?
I currently drive a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/ 205k miles. I was quoted about $2500 to fix my failing steering gear box and power steering pump. The transmission is also showing signs that it is on its way out. In addition, the fuel economy is getting a little ridiculous (13-15 mpg at best). It doesn't seem wise to fix it, so I am beginning to look for something else. I am looking for something smaller, more reliable, and better on fuel.
Restrictions: - $15k price - 2014 or newer - less than 100k miles
I dont have a preference for manual or automatic, or whether it's a sedan, coupe, or wagon. I'm in New England, and while having better capabilities for winter would be ideal, it's not a deal breaker.
Any thoughts or suggestions are welcomed.
submitted by Charliec3ntral
to whatcarshouldIbuy [link] [comments]
2023.06.09 21:43 b20828 2007 Saturn Vue 2.2L Low idle rpm
I'm experiencing low idling rpm (600 rpm, with a little shaking when it gets that low). A few behaviors to note:
1) It does not do this when the intake air temperature sensor is disconnected. (I replaced the sensor but it did not change the behavior). When the IAT is disconnected it idles around 800 rpm.
2) Turning on the cabin fan increases engine rpm and the roughness goes away.
3) The idle drops a bit when the brake pedal is depressed.
4) Aside from low idle rpm, the vehicle seems to run fine with reasonable acceleration and cruise behavior.
5) Recent service included new plugs, transmission fluid and filter, air filter, new valve cover gasket and oil change, new front brake caliper assemblies, rear brake shoes and brake fluid bleed.
What are the likely causes to look at first? I few items on my short list are vacuum leak, throttle bottle excessive deposits, crankcase ventilation issue.
Thank you very much for any suggestions.
submitted by b20828
to AskMechanics [link] [comments]
2023.06.09 21:37 tmurphss TJ in frame rebuild update… long read, story time.
So a little over a year ago I rebuilt the 4.0 in my 2004 wrangler, found out it had busted piston skirts, bad lifter and burnt valves on the head. That was dec 2021. https://www.reddit.com/Jeep/comments/qq19c6/in_frame_rebuild_for_my_2004_40_sounded_like_a/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1 https://www.reddit.com/Jeep/comments/rjxu2getting_closer_update_on_the_in_frame_rebuild/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1
I ended up getting it all back together and was fighting low oil pressure and crazy vacuum problems. I put in undersized crank bearings and a high volume oil pump and put the ccv elbows in the valve cover in the right spot and I had been nearly daily driving it for around 10k miles with no problems. Then an emergency braking ( or lack of) situation put it back under the knife in February this year. Emergency stop with 33’s, no ABS, or functioning rear brakes doesn’t make for the best stopping distance and I rear ended another vehicle on my way home from work one evening.
Ended up smashing the front end pretty good, airbags deployed, and it wouldn’t run. At the time it had a 3 inch body lift, (bought it that way) the force from the accident actually deformed the body on the mounts, but luckily frame and all running gear was fine.
I was able to rebuild it. And here is a link of the pictures of the progress… https://imgur.com/a/GNFbcke
First thing I did was get rid of all the damaged parts, good, grill, fenders, radiator, ac condenser,fan and clutch, and power steering pump pulley.
I started putting it back together to see if it would run. I replaced the fan and clutch, the power steering pulley and put the belt back on just to see if it would fire. It didn’t. I had no gauges and it would t fire, it would crank without any bad sounds though so that was a good sign. Turns out the fender got pushed back into the firewall and damaged the ECM. Used one on eBay that was for the same year, engine, and transmission, plugged it in and and it fired right up.
I still had no radiator or cooling so I didn’t run it long but drove it into the yard to try and straighten the body mounts. I was slightly successful, pulled from the bumper with board against a tree and the firewall to hold the body but pull the frame to shift everything. It’s still offset a bit but it was a little better.
I decided I didn’t like the 3 inch body lift, too much hanging down under the body and you could still see the lean in the body mounts exaggerated because of the height. Also the extensions on the grill mounting locations broke, so I started looking for a new body mount set. I ended up getting a 1 inch body lift because I could get it with all new mounts and new bolts cheaper than going back with original, so I changed those out.
Since I got it running it was time for bodywork.
I got a used grill on Facebook marketplace and a new hood ( Houston auto parts.com was 240 cash and I picked it up, new stamping but I can tell it’s thinner gauge) and I painted them with rustoleum gloss black and a rattle can 2k clear coat in my barn. For anyone wondering it’s not a perfect match for px8 paint code, looks more brown in direct sunlight but it works for me for now hahah.
For fenders I found a used set that had been cut and got the smittybilt tube fenders, both of those together would be cheaper than new fenders and flares so I went that route.
Got a new ac condenser on Amazon, used radiator on fb marketplace, new radiator support rods that tie to the firewall from eBay, and bolted everything together, filled up the radiator and found the water pump leaking. So took everything back apart to replace the water pump.
I replaced the back brakes, new drums and shoes and now those work and I have a parking brake now.
After that since mechanically it was good, I pulled the whole dash apart to replace the airbags, got those on eBay. They are not easy to replace let me tell ya. Also ended up having to replace the steering wheel clock spring also, but after that no airbag light on dash and everything is back together.
Now it’s all back together and I’ve gotten a little over 1000 miles on it. This thing is a love hate relationship. Ended up right under $3k on repairs.
Just Empty Every Pocket
submitted by tmurphss
to Jeep [link] [comments]
2023.06.09 20:23 GLIsaghost What is the highest mileage seen on a 1.8t mk4 engine? Let me know how many miles yours survived, if it was/is manual or automatic and if it was modified or not. Also, asking if you changed/had the transmission fluid changed.
Trying to estimate cost of longevity for my beloved mk4. Body is looking tragic due to rust, so I’m hoping to get some insight on how others are holding up.
submitted by GLIsaghost
to JettaGLI [link] [comments]
2023.06.09 19:28 larsie13 my experience at ALERT/STEP/Big Sandy as a non fundie lmao
Long post alert bc I watched SHP and have survivors guilt I guess! As more and more comes out about the ATI/IBLP programs I am so grateful that I had an adult in my life who protected me from the programs, and feel so sad for the other children that didn't. I went to the camp and left thinking "omg, that was a weird 1.5 months" but never had to hear about it again. The other kids were stuck in the cycle forever and went home to it. Breaks my heart :( SO I found my old diary I kept when I was at STEP, had two glasses of white wine and here you go:
I attended STEP+ some of STEP advanced,https://iblp.org/spiritual-enrichment-young-ladies/
sometimes lumped with EXCEL. STEP was the summer-long girl's version of ALERT, at the IBLP/ATI campus in Big Sandy. I went just before the first bits of Duggar news broke, in 2014 if I remember correctly. My best friend at the time invited me to go, and it was presented as a regular "summer camp" to my mom. We had no idea what it was like. My mom was hesitant as there wasn't much info online but I begged to go and she allowed me. I was homeschooled but not fundie at all so it was an enormous culture shock. I was constantly told I was too headstrong, not meek and mild, and lacked "first time obedience". I was told I was "not a mercy-giver" as I wasn't helpful enough. They never said it in a mean way and were always very sweet as they said it.
At Big Sandy there was some effort to teach us real skills, like getting to rock climb, going on camp-outs, how to change a tire or do CPR and some fun kayaking and crafts but also lots of culty things. Most of the girls seemed to enjoy it, have signed up willingly, and viewed it as a fun summer camp/break from caring for their younger siblings, but there were some who were more rebellious and talked about running away, or who had come with friends and had no idea it would be like this. Michelle Duggar spoke briefly to us girls via video chat at one point before a sermon, with a long, boring story about how as a child she once stole $20 from a woman and how we all are sinful, even young people like us. They also came in their big white bus to pick up a Duggar boy (who shall not be named as they were exploited enough already)and we hid on the porch and watched his shoulders sag and say, "Y'all are sure?" when they told him they had come to surprise him and tell him they were expecting another baby. We did not interact with the boys at all except for kitchen duty, some guest speakers, and church, but I remember once in the kitchen he mentioned that he would rather be at ALERT than at home when some of us were talking about missing home. :'(.
The teen leaders (unpaid, mostly sweet, older teen girls, including some of the Bates girls) had us "confess" sins to each other and our leaders weekly. I don't blame the teen leaders as they were getting just as brainwashed as we were. Almost all of them were very kind but there were a few (not from the "famous fundie families")who took great pleasure in being "drill instructors" and waking us up/yelling at us/ being more like the ALERT leaders. I remember girls confessing very deep things that could have harmed themselves/others and no one being equipped to do anything about it/no mental health professionals. We did a "rapture" experience where we were woken up in the middle of the night, blindfolded with our hands on each other's shoulders and led through a dark room while people screamed at us and we were lightly hit with pool noodles which seemed scary when you can't see what's going on. I got in trouble for talking back and telling them to stop after a girl had a panic attack. I started yelling back and told them it was psychological warfare and that we were just kids and they said they were preparing us for the "real apocalypse war" which just scared everyone even more.
There were lots of lectures on how to be a a good help-meet, how to set a table, cook , sew, etc. We did also learn how to change tires, do basic drywall and plumbing, and pluck and clean chickens. The Alert boys killed goats, girls killed chickens. A girl cried and said she didn't want to do it and an Alert boy was screamed at by higher-ups for killing the chicken for her instead of making her do it. Most of these classes were taught by kids a little older than us that for some reason were working for ATI instead of in college. We had a lecture on dressing more feminine and were told long necklaces were a sin because they drew the eye to our chest. Eye-traps were a huge thing. I couldn't believe it when I heard that in the documentary again. When I told the other girls I regularly wore swimsuits and went swimming without t-shirts over them there was a collective gasp. When we played soccer they sent the ALERT boys inside so they wouldn't see us in exercise clothes. Just so much emphasis on keeping covered and hidden. My best friend and I got in trouble for talking about popular culture, especially popular music at the time like Justin Bieber and One Direction. During movie nights we only got to watch pre-approved, older movies usually with a patriotic/family theme or message. Follow Me Boys and episodes of the Andy Griffith Tv show were favorites. Writing letters to your future husband was another big "quiet time" activity. I wrote Dear Niall Horan and got yelled at. :)
Every day except Sunday we woke up at 4 am and read the Bible/did devotions, then ran two miles, did calisthenics, and obstacle courses. It wasn't as paramilitary as ALERT but we had room inspections, had KP and had to clean the IBLP campus ( the ALERT boys did help us). The kitchens were ran by older homeschooled girls, some of them from my circle, who had been sent there to work/board for free in the hopes of meeting and marrying an ALERT boy. The ALERT boys had it tougher than we did. I remember them working out a lot, having to "deploy" to find a lost elderly man in a town nearby, taking flight and diving lessons, and them just standing in formation and saluting Col. Tanner who ran ALERT and mainly just drove around in a Jeep. We had to fast on Sundays, which was a bad idea as myself and most of the girls were severely underweight, scrawny teens. We had a love/hate relationship with Sundays. No food until 5pm and all-day sermons on Sunday, but we loooved going to church because we got to see the QUEST and ALERT boys! sitting on the other side of the room. We really thought they were something in those dumb uniforms, y'all. If you've ever been to a homeschool conference and seen them smugly guarding the doors you know how funny it is.
The scary part is I started out thinking "this is insane, nothing like a summer camp, I should call Mom to come get me" but then I began to really believe them -that I WAS bad and rebellious, that I had been raised too secular, that I should be more submissive and meek, etc. Plus I felt guilty leaving my new friends that I had made.
My mom did some research on her own about the programs while I was there and freaked out after finding out about the Bill Gothard ties. This was just as things were beginning to come out online. She came to get me weeks early, saying I was never going back. I can remember her politely but firmly explaining to the employees and teen interns how bad the programs were and how their beliefs needed to be better advertised on the website so people wouldn't accidentally sign up thinking it was a "normal camp". She took me out of a church youth group when I said it was starting to sound similar to IBLP. She also removed me from the Before You Meet Prince Charming Bible study group all my homeschooled friends had signed up for, which is a very fundie "courtship based" group. I was a very young teen at the time and was totally brainwashed and so impressionable. I told my mom I wanted to start wearing skirts so I didn't distract guys, etc. I thought I was going to Hell for having read Wattpad and thinking Justin Bieber was cute. She instantly started working through this with me, offered to take me to therapy, and helped de-IBLP my faith. To think that all of this was fit into a two month summer camp (that I only went to a month and a half of ) is insane. I can only imagine how indoctrinated the poor kids that were raised in this program were.
Looking back I'm so thankful she realized how dangerous that ideology was. The Duggar news broke just a few months after that. After I left for college my mom joined a new supposedly non denom homeschool group with my younger siblings. Even then, around 2018, with the news about the Duggars fully out there, there were other homeschooling moms
(one who y'all know well "m is for mildfundie")
who reprimanded my mom for speaking out against harmful "just quietly endure suffering" beliefs that are so prevalent in homeschool Christian circles and for recommending therapy to ex-fundies.
Posting because I also feel a little bit of survivor's guilt I guess - out of all the girls in my "team" at STEP and the guys I knew that were sent to ALERT I am one of only 3 that "made it out" and went to college instead of instantly starting a very large family. It's all so clear now how dangerous the programs were but at the time I thought my mom was over-reacting. I can see how they prey on easily impressionable, uneducated adults and then groom children. It's horrifying.
Side note: most of the STEP staff moved over to P31/Uncommon Endeavors
, which supposedly is less culty but who knows. I would hope that it's more focused on the camping and outdoors aspect and less on the "are you a giver? a prophet? a helpmeet?" type stuff.
submitted by larsie13
to DuggarsSnark [link] [comments]
2023.06.09 19:24 dizital 2007 Toyota Rav4. GTA/Ontario
Hey all Looking to buy a used vehicle for my retired dad to go from point A to B. Car looks great , inside and out. Thinking of taking it to a shop for safety and inspection. I've pasted the details below. Should I pursue this? Please let me know!
Clean, immaculately-maintained 2007 Toyota RAV4 in deep blue.
Tons of refreshes and upgrades! - Engine rebuilt by Toyota as part of factory recall @ 245K (new pistons, spark plugs, water pump, belts, tensioner, valve seals) - Brand new front brake assembly (pads, rotors, callipers, brake fluid flush) - New alternator - New muffler - Front LED headlights - Cabin & license plate LED kit - All-synthetic oil changes - Carbon fibre-wrapped hood - All-weather floor mats - Aftermarket LED-enabled USB ports - Aftermarket wireless charger - Black-coated aluminum rims - Krown rustproofing - All-around ceramic tint - Bike rack available for sale
Makes a bit of chirping sound at times and CEL goes on occasionally. Overall drives well. A/C ice cold.
Not sure if it requires anything else at this point. Selling AS-IS. Read Less Specifications Kilometres343,000 km StatusUsed Trim4WD 4dr I4 Base TransmissionAutomatic DrivetrainAWD Exterior ColourBlue Doors5 doors Fuel TypeGasoline
submitted by dizital
to UsedCars [link] [comments]
2023.06.09 18:11 boostank2 Doing a transmission fluid change on a GLC300 2016. A couple of questions
Do I need the cleaner fluid when the job is done? Which one do you recommend? And which transmission fluid do you recommend? And how much coolant does it take? A trained mechanic is doing it btw. TIA
submitted by boostank2
to mercedes_benz [link] [comments]
2023.06.09 13:38 Born-Recognition9298 Honda Dealership Experience
Is it normal for a Honda dealership to lie to you to get you to buy something? When I went in to have my 2015 Honda Civic serviced to have cvt transmission fluid changed, they told me that I also had an oil leak somewhere but would have to do some sort of leak dye test to isolate the root cause of it. Prior to taking in we have not noticed any obvious spots in driveway where car is parked of oil leakage and been checking the few days afterwards and the dipstick has been reading fine. Should I write to Honda corporate about this or just let it be?
submitted by Born-Recognition9298
to Honda [link] [comments]
2023.06.09 09:35 Silver_Cup_6354 Transmission issue?
Sorry guys if this isn’t related to the group but I would appreciate any help you can offer.
2011 Mitsubishi Lancer Automatic CVT transmission 222,000kms
Engine running fine. No engine or transmission light visible.
No leaks anywhere or bad smells Oil, transmission fluid all levels in the car are fine and the fluid looks clean.
Car will shudder or change gears rough during the first three gear changes there is a bit of a clanking noise when breaking and when you put your foot slightly on the accelerator. Apart from this the car runs perfectly fine and recently serviced 4 months ago no issues found. It only started 4 days ago.
Taken to a transmission specialist who without even looking at it took it for a drive and based on the code provided jumped straight to the conclusion new gear box needed at a cost of $6,000-$7,000 but stated if the problem still wasn’t fixed after that to look at somewhere else for the problem. Based on this I think he’s unsure that replacing the gear box will solve the problem.
Can anyone point me into the direction of what may be causing this issue and if it is in fact a transmission problem.
Many thanks in advance!!
submitted by Silver_Cup_6354
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2023.06.09 08:36 Autospoke321 Key Steps for a Successful Used Car Purchase
The demand for used cars is on the rise due to factors such as inflation, personal mobility preferences, and the soaring costs of new vehicles. Whether motivated by budget constraints or the desire to develop driving skills before investing in a brand-new model, buying a used car can offer excellent value for money. However, it is crucial to approach the process with caution and follow essential steps to ensure a wise investment. This article provides five key steps to help buyers make informed decisions and secure a good used car deal.
1: Exercise Patience and Avoid Hasty Decisions
When considering the purchase of a used car, it is essential not to rush into a decision. With a wide variety of models available in the market, it is easy to be swayed by visually appealing options. However, it is crucial to take the necessary time to thoroughly explore all available choices before making a final purchase. One must remember that appearances can be deceiving, and not everything that glitters is gold. Even if a car appears perfect on the surface, it is important to dig deeper and conduct a comprehensive assessment.
2: Assess the Car's Overall Condition
After narrowing down the options, it is crucial to carefully examine the overall condition of the selected used car. If one possesses technical knowledge about vehicles, they can perform the inspection themselves. Otherwise, seeking assistance from a trusted individual knowledgeable about cars is recommended. While a car may seem fine on the outside, a keen eye can identify potential cover-ups and determine its true value.
During the inspection, attention should be paid to details such as paint damage, signs of rusting, and any hidden flaws. The interior of the car should be thoroughly examined, focusing on the quality and functionality of the upholstery, music system, infotainment system, and seats. Additionally, the tires should be inspected for wear and tear, and the wheel alignment should be carefully assessed. Scrutinizing the engine for leaks, corrosion, and cracked tubes is crucial. Furthermore, checking the oil and transmission fluid using a dipstick is recommended.
3: Conduct Multiple Test Drives
Whether purchasing a new or used car, never finalize a deal without taking a test drive. A test drive allows buyers to evaluate the car's performance, functionality of various components, and its handling under different driving conditions. If satisfaction is not achieved with a single test drive, multiple drives should be taken. It is also advisable to have a trusted individual with automotive knowledge accompany the buyer or conduct a test drive on their behalf. Spending a considerable amount of time driving the car will unveil insights that the seller may not disclose.
4: Verify Maintenance RecordsM
Obtaining the maintenance records of the used car is essential to understand its history and any potential issues it may have encountered. Some car owners maintain meticulous records, keeping receipts and notes of servicing dates, while others may not be as organized. Regardless, it is crucial to review the maintenance history before making a purchase. This information provides insights into the car's past care and potential maintenance requirements.
5: Authenticate Registration Certificate and Review Other Documents
Before finalizing the deal, it is important to check the authenticity of the vehicle's registration certificate (RC). The RC contains crucial details such as the owner's name, engine number, and chassis number. Ensuring that the RC is original and not a duplicate (marked as DRC) is crucial. Discussing the DRC status with the seller and confirming the car's registration location is important. The buyer's name should appear on the vehicle's RC before completing the purchase.
Additionally, other important documents, such as the original purchase invoice, insurance papers, road tax receipts, and pollution certificate, should be reviewed. Paying attention to Form 35 and the No Objection Certificate (NOC) from the financing company, if applicable, is necessary. Any modifications to the engine's displacement or changes in the vehicle's color should be specified in the registration certificate as well.
Buying a used car can be a practical and cost-effective choice, but it requires careful consideration and attention to detail. By following these five key steps, buyers can ensure they make informed decisions and secure a good used car that meets their needs while providing value for their money.
It is important to resist the temptation of making hasty decisions and instead take the necessary time to explore different options and thoroughly inspect the overall condition of the car. Conducting multiple test drives will reveal valuable insights into the car's performance and functionality. Reviewing maintenance records will provide a clearer understanding of the car's history and potential maintenance issues.
Verifying the authenticity of the registration certificate and reviewing other important documents will protect buyers from potential legal or financial complications. Ensuring that all necessary paperwork is in order before finalizing the purchase is crucial.
By conducting thorough research and evaluation, buyers can make informed decisions and increase their chances of purchasing a reliable and well-maintained used car.
It is important to remember that purchasing a car is a significant investment, and obtaining the best value for one's hard-earned money should be a priority. With proper care and attention, buying a used car can be a rewarding experience, providing a reliable mode of transportation and long-term cost savings.
Also Read: Important Things to Know About Automatic Cars
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2023.06.09 07:32 Carzbot Buying a Good Used Car: 5 Essential Steps
With rising inflation, increasing preference for personal mobility, and soaring costs of new cars, the demand for used cars is on the rise. Whether it's due to budget constraints or the desire to hone driving skills before investing in a brand-new model, buying a used car can offer excellent value for money. However, it's crucial for buyers to be cautious and follow essential steps to ensure they get the best possible deal for their hard-earned money. In this article, we will discuss five key steps to help you make an informed decision and ensure you are buying a good used car.
1: Don't Give a Quick Judgment
When buying a used car, it's essential not to rush into a decision. With numerous models available in the market, it's easy to be attracted to a visually appealing car. However, it's crucial to take your time and thoroughly explore your options before making a final purchase. Remember, appearances can be deceiving, and not everything that glitters is gold. Even if a car seems perfect on the surface, it's important to dig deeper and conduct a thorough assessment.
2: Check the Car's Overall Condition
Once you have narrowed down your options, it's crucial to examine the car's overall condition. If you have technical knowledge about cars, you can perform the inspection yourself. Otherwise, seek assistance from a trusted person who is knowledgeable about vehicles. While a car may appear fine on the outside, a skilled eye can identify any potential cover-ups and determine its true value.
During the inspection, pay close attention to details. Check for paint damage, signs of rusting, and any hidden flaws. Inside the cabin, thoroughly examine the quality and functionality of the upholstery, music system, infotainment system, and seats. Inspect the tires for wear and tear, and carefully assess the wheel alignment. Additionally, scrutinize the engine for leaks, corrosion, and cracked tubes. Use a dipstick to check the oil and transmission fluid.
3: Test Drive, Multiple Times if Needed
Never finalize a deal without taking a test drive, whether you're buying a new or used car. A test drive allows you to assess the car's performance, functionality of various components, and how it handles different driving conditions. If you're not satisfied with a single test drive, take multiple ones. Additionally, consider having a trusted individual with automotive knowledge accompany you or conduct a test drive on your behalf. Spending a considerable amount of time driving the car will reveal insights that the seller may not disclose.
4: Check Maintenance Records
Obtaining the maintenance records of the car is essential to understand its history and any issues it may have encountered. Some car owners meticulously maintain records, keeping receipts and notes of servicing dates. Others may not be as organized. Regardless, it is crucial for you to review the maintenance history before making a purchase. This information will give you insights into the car's past care and potential maintenance requirements.
5: Calculate the Mileage
Verify the Registration Certificate and Other Documents Always check the authenticity of the vehicle's registration certificate (RC) before finalizing the deal. The RC contains important details such as the owner's name, engine number, and chassis number. Ensure that the RC is original and not a duplicate (marked as DRC). Discuss the DRC status with the seller and confirm where the car was registered. Your name should appear on the vehicle's RC before completing the purchase.
Additionally, review other important documents such as the original purchase invoice, insurance papers, road tax receipts, and pollution certificate. Pay attention to the Form 35 and the No Objection Certificate (NOC) from the financing company if applicable. Any modifications to the engine's displacement or changes in the vehicle's color should be specified in the registration certificate as well.
Conclusion Buying a used car can be a practical and cost-effective choice, but it requires careful consideration and attention to detail. By following these five key steps, you can ensure that you are buying a good used car that meets your needs and provides value for your money.
Remember to resist the temptation to make a hasty decision. Take your time to explore different options and thoroughly inspect the car's overall condition. Conduct multiple test drives to assess its performance and functionality. Checking the maintenance records will give you insights into the car's history and potential maintenance issues. Also Read : The Importance of Calculating Your Car's Mileage: A Comprehensive Guide
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2023.06.09 06:32 TapGeneral6131 Need help with an issue
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Hey I have some questions about cooling issues with a jeep Patriot 2014 latitude. I am too broke to go back to the mechanic. I went and had my water pump and thermostats housing changed out and I changed out the coolent temp sensor myself(only the top one I can't reach the other one)within the last day and it still overheated l. Anyway, come to find out being the unknowning car idiot it was my radiator the whole time or so I assume. Both of the hose are super hard and has pressure in them, I have to twist the cap to let it out(if I don't my car will start for a bit and shut off and after the pressure is out it can crank) and my hose is always dry. Could that indicate a blockage or my radiator bad? submitted by TapGeneral6131 to AskMechanics [link] [comments]
I don't have a lot of folks in my life outside of the internet so trying to figure this out. Also, if my radiator is messed up and I only drove it twice since I added the new parts does that mean I have to change them back out? Some mechanics from Your mechanic told me( I changed the water pump and thermostats housing yesterday) and the coolent temp sensor this morning. But the dude is telling me I need to change all of the components again? It didn't feel right and he felt kinda awkward lol. I had a lot of white splash on my engine for him to say it's the radiator. But I changed everything and it's still running hot so I figure it's the radiator.